by Martin Blick (Sept 2019)
Portrack Marsh is in the borough of Stockton and is flanked by industry, retail parks, railway sidings and a sewage works. This 50-acre Tees Valley Wildlife Trust reserve lies on the North bank of the River Tees sandwiched between the A19 flyover and the Tees Barrage. Historically the marsh was within a meander of the river but in 1830 the River Tees was straightened to facilitate the passage of ships to Stockton. The resulting oxbow lake was partially filled in and the Western part of the loop, known as Portrack Lake was lost in the 1970s. The grid reference marking the centre of the reserve is NZ465194.
In December 2013 a very high tide, coupled with a strong North-Easterly wind caused widespread flooding on the East coast and resulted in river and sea water flowing into Portrack Marsh. The flood water was over a metre deep in places and stayed in situ for several months, resulting in the death of many trees. Most have been left to decay naturally and a small amount of planting has been done on the Western edge, but the resulting weed growth amongst the dead hawthorns has proved to be very attractive to many species of bird.

Today the marsh incorporates a mixture of shallow and deeper pools surrounded by expanding reedbeds (containing reedmace and phragmites), and grassland with a line of trees along the Northern and Western edges. Such a range of habitats makes this an enjoyable place to visit at any season, although winter is probably best for birds. Wildflowers, butterflies and dragonflies provide interest during the summer months and Grey Seals consume the fish in the adjacent river.
In winter Jack Snipe are regular in small numbers, and tend to favour the old settling tanks close to the existing sewage works or the Eastern edge of the main lake. Snipe, Kingfisher, Grey Wagtail and Bullfinch are fairly easy to catch up with, offering a touch of colour to brighten up the short, dull days. Chiffchaffs occasionally winter in trees at the Northern end and Stonechats are seen in most winters. The hawthorns along the Western edge formerly held roosting Long-eared Owls and Herons, but not since these trees died in the flood.
Redshank and Lapwing feed and roost along the river bank in good numbers, generally with a few Curlew and sometimes a Little Egret or two. Shoveler, Gadwall, Teal, Pochard and Tufted Duck frequent the pools, occasionally being joined by Goldeneye or Scaup. Coastal species are sometimes enticed upstream by the numbers of fish trapped below the barrage; Red-throated Diver, Red-breasted Merganser, Common Scoter, Shag and Guillemot have all been recorded in the river.

In spring Sand Martins are often the first of the summer visitors to arrive, and in most years nest in the river bank across from the marsh or in the newly (2017) created Sand Martin wall beside the main lake. The marsh is a reliable site for Grasshopper Warbler, with 2-3 reeling into July, and other breeding warblers include Whitethroat, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Sedge and Reed Warblers. Common Terns arrive in May and remain throughout the summer, 10-12 pairs nesting on the island in the lake at the Eastern end.
The summer period tends to be the quietest. Regular breeding birds include Moorhen, Coot, Water Rail, Mute Swan and three duck species. Little Ringed Plover has nested but not since the marsh has been mostly vegetated over.

If any areas of mud are evident in autumn, an array of passage waders may be noted, principally Snipe, Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Common, Green and Wood Sandpipers, and the possibility of something more unusual. However, by 2019, most of the areas that became mud in autumn had been invaded by vegetation, principally phragmites, and, unfortunately, there are significantly fewer waders being recorded in Cleveland.
As with many areas of marsh across the country that are watched by birders on a regular basis, rare and unusual birds turn up from time to time. Portrack Marsh is no exception and the list includes Bluethroat, Pectoral Sandpiper, Spotted Crake, Corncrake, Great White Egret, Yellow-legged and Ring-billed Gulls, Penduline Tit, Firecrest, Hobby, Osprey, Cetti’s Warbler and Ring Ouzel.
Portrack Marsh can be accessed from all sides; from Thornaby railway station or Stockton town centre (walking East along river), from Middlesbrough centre (walking West along river and over Newport Bridge), from the Talpore Travel Inn, Tees Barrage or White Water Caravan Park and canoe slalom course (in South West corner of the marsh) and from Marston Road/ASDA car park (by the North West corner of the marsh).