Teesmouth Bird Club

Tried to find the exact Kenko you were on about earlier Ian.

Is this it?

http://tony-holmes.demonweb.co.uk/Kenko-Teleplus-lens-converter-1_5x-EOS.htm

Stew

Hi Stew,

That's the one  

Might be worth a look at Amazon.co.uk as well slightly cheaper there. They do crop up on Ebay as well but prices for Canon mount are pretty much the same. Also worth checking the 'for sales' section on Bird Forum.

Hi Ian

I have a Canon 550D and a Sigma 120-400mm lens. Will a Kenko teleconverter work with this or do I need to buy Sigma's own?

Quote from: DavieG on November 14, 2010, 02:33:43 PM
Hi Ian

I have a Canon 550D and a Sigma 120-400mm lens. Will a Kenko teleconverter work with this or do I need to buy Sigma's own?

The teleconverter should work with the majority of lenses though I'm not familiar with that one. Physically I think it will fit and you'll retain auto-exposure but you may need to use manual focus,  though with several cameras you can retain autofocus by using a single outer focus point.

However as a general rule teleconverters don't work that well with zoom lenses as the image quality can be very soft. They're better suited to prime lenses.

Hi Ian

Thanks for the advice. I am looking at buying the Canon 400mm prime lens, but wondered if the lack of IS can be an issue with it?

Quote from: DavieG on November 21, 2010, 08:10:38 PM
Hi Ian

Thanks for the advice. I am looking at buying the Canon 400mm prime lens, but wondered if the lack of IS can be an issue with it?

I use the 400mm f5,6 as a walkabout lens usually with little or no support. A rule of thumb is that the minimum shutter speed should equal focal length - e.g. 1/400 sec with a 400mm lens. On a bright day the lack of IS isn't an issue as shutter speeds at f5,6 are usually well above 1/500 sec often 1/1250 or more which is doable for most people. Having said that if at all possible then I find some form of support whether it be a hide window, tree, post, wall etc. Adding a teleconverter is a whole new ball game as you both lose an f-stop and the increase in focal length requires a higher shutter speed.

Using a converter I almost always need extra support preferably from a sturdy tripod but occasionally hand held especially for birds in flight.

You can buy Canon 400mm lenses with IS but whilst they're excellent quality they're a good deal more expensive.

Just a quick note about the Kenko.  I've bought one but haven't had chance to check it out properly yet.... crap weather!  One thing I have noticed which could make me have regrets is that the auto focus is poor.  While it works, it requires high contrast to home in on the subject.  At low contrast, it hunts so much that realistically it can't be used.  This, I know, is a problem with all of the cheaper TCs.  The Canons don't have this problem but, of course, the latest models (due out imminently) are 4x the price :-(

Stew

Quote from: StewH on November 24, 2010, 10:05:47 AM
Just a quick note about the Kenko.  I've bought one but haven't had chance to check it out properly yet.... crap weather!  One thing I have noticed which could make me have regrets is that the auto focus is poor.  While it works, it requires high contrast to home in on the subject.  At low contrast, it hunts so much that realistically it can't be used.  This, I know, is a problem with all of the cheaper TCs.  The Canons don't have this problem but, of course, the latest models (due out imminently) are 4x the price :-(

Stew

Actually it does occur with Canon converters as well. I find the Kenko 1.5x autofocuses much more reliably than the Canon 1.4x in any conditions. The issue is the lens aperture rather than the converter. For full autofocus operation on anything other than the pro camera models the lens needs to be at least f4 for enough light to reach the camera sensor.

In bright conditions you should be able to autofocus properly especially if you use a single outer focus point. I frequently take birds in flight using a 1.5x converter so it is fast enough. As you say though on dull days with lower contrast autofocus does hunt. More often than not I just swap to manual focus - it's well worth practicing as it becomes second nature even hand holding. When the camera is tripod mounted I use the live view function as you can zoom in the view either 5x or 10x to control focus really well - provided the bird stays still long enough! Also usng live view whilst autofocus is slower it works in much lower light levels.

Cheers Ian, I look forward to some nice light to try it out properly.  When you say outer focus point, can you explain what you mean.... I'm confused.  If it's complicated, I'll wait til I next bump into.

Stew

Quote from: StewH on November 24, 2010, 01:06:20 PM
Cheers Ian, I look forward to some nice light to try it out properly.  When you say outer focus point, can you explain what you mean.... I'm confused.  If it's complicated, I'll wait til I next bump into.

Stew

Many cameras have nine focus points, though some have more and some have less which the camera uses to guage focus. Usually there's one centre point surrounded by the outer ones. You can set the camera to use all focus points, just the centre point or you can select just one focus point - with Canon cameras half depress the shutter and let go to wake up the camera and straight away press the top right button on the camera back and use the toggle button (varies with model) to select one of the outer points. It's easier to do than to describe! If autofocus is proving hit and miss with the centre point then I usually use the bottom left outer point. On most models the outer focus points are a different from the cross-type centre point, though even on the 7D where all points are cross-type the outer points still work better when usuing a teleconverter.

Hello Mike and Graham

Please see below -

'It is on the opposite side of the road to RSPB Saltholme.If you carry on past the entrance to Saltholme towards Port Clarence there is a right turn.Then approx 100m down that road there is a car park.You can carry on past the car park and there is a right turn onto a dirt track which takes you towards a further pond.Only Teesmouth Bird Club members are allowed down there and security do come around to check.

Graham'

Substitute left for right in both instances

Peter

OK Ian, I also have the 7D so should be able to do this.. I'll give it a try.  Out of interest, is there a technical explanation of why an outer point should be better than a centre?

Stew

It's got me beat. On many camera models the centre point(s) a 'X' (cross) type and the outer ones are all '|' (vertical) type sensors. Many, including myself assumed the outer points on the likes of the 40D worked better due to the different type of sensor, paticularly for the likes of birds in flight where a horizontal line may cross a vertical sensor point.

Ordinarily I'd have thought on the 7D they'd all behave the same way but my experience eevn with the 7D is that the outer ones definitely work better with a converter fiited.

Hi Ian

Just bought a Canon 400mm 5.6 prime lens to go with my 550D. As a beginner to bird photography, I am having problems getting pin sharp results.

I wondered what camera mode you use to shoot in and do you always shoot in RAW? Also, do you do your own processing using Canon's own bundled software?

Oh, on the lens there is a switch for the minimum focus distance. I would assume you always have it on the closest setting - what difference -if any - does this make?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Quote from: DavieG on December 02, 2010, 09:18:09 AM
Hi Ian

Just bought a Canon 400mm 5.6 prime lens to go with my 550D. As a beginner to bird photography, I am having problems getting pin sharp results.

I wondered what camera mode you use to shoot in and do you always shoot in RAW? Also, do you do your own processing using Canon's own bundled software?

Oh, on the lens there is a switch for the minimum focus distance. I would assume you always have it on the closest setting - what difference -if any - does this make?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Camera shake is an issue when holding such a long lens. Normal advice with a lens is that you should shoot at a minimum speed equal to focal length. e.g. 1/400 sec with a 400mm lens unless it's mounted on a sturdy tripod. Realistically I'd be looking for around 1/800-1/1000 sec minimum when you're getting used to the lens. It's easily achieved on a bright day even in winter. It's worth setting the ISO speed to ISO 400 as well. It will be noisier (grainier) than using ISO 100 or 200 but it will enable a faster shutter speed.

Stance is very important as well. Feet should be about a 'foot' apart, left hand holding the lens from below but not touching the focus ring so as to support the lens weight. It's often advised to tuck your elbows into your sides and to release the shutter as your exhale. Really it's a question of being aware of what you're trying to achieve and find a comfortable stance that suits you. The main thing though is to think about holding everything steady as you release the shutter. Using burst mode can help as well as if taking 5-6 photos at once there's more chance of at least one or two being sharp.

Generally I prefer to shoot in AV mode. The 400mm f5,6 being such a sharp lens can be used wide open at f5,6 and still give remarkably sharp photos. Using AV mode you're selecting the aperture and leaving the camera to decide the best shutter speed. When starting off though it may be worth trying TV mode and set the shutter speed to 1/800 or 1/000 sec which lets the camera decide the aperture. If you're getting sharp photos at that speed then reduce it to 1/400 or swap to AV mode. You could use P mode as well of course.

Using just one focus point can help as well I generally use just the single centre focus point. If you have all points selected most cameras will focus on the point nearest the camera. I generally find it's the wing tip nearest the camera for birds in flight. Using a single point you can put it over the head, body, feet etc. so there's more chance of the important bits being in focus.

I almost always shoot at max jpeg. It suits my needs whether web use or for prints for publication. Using RAW won't do anything at all to help with a photo that isn't sharp however it gives more control of correction of exposure when processing on the computer. RAW files are massive though and take a long time to download and even open let alone process which is the main reason I don't use them. Each to their own though. Some people enjoy sitting at the computer processing files. Personally I just like to crop, resize, sharpen and save - done it seconds.

I seldom use the Canon software. I did use it occasionally for downloading and processing RAW files and occasionally use the photo stitching software though there are other programs that do a better job. Mostly I use a program called Thumbsplus which is really a cataloguing software but has basic easy to use tools which are almost all I ever use. I also have Photoshop Elements 4.0 which is now superceded by a much more up to date version. Any verison from 4 upwards has a good range of easy to use features probably far more than most people will ever need and is reasonably priced as well. It's good for photo stitching as well.

The lens distance switch is quite important. It should be set for anything over 8.5m as the focus will operate much faster. Obviously for closer subjects it needs to be set for 3.5-8.5m. If you leave it set on the closer setting the lens will hunt more for focus slowing down autofocus and I find on more distant subjects results aren't as sharp as when using the distance setting.