Teesmouth Bird Club

Thanks for the excellent advice, Ian. I'll give TV and AV a go and see what kind of results I get.

I'm also going to invest in the Kenko teleconverter 1.5x you mentioned earlier in this thread. However, I wondered if you know whether the new Kenko Pro 300 DG range of converters - such as the 1.4x - are any better at producing sharper images?

Ever considered holding a beginner's class to bird photography - maybe at Saltholme? I, for one, would be willing to pay for such help as there's not much around in this particular field.

The Kenko pro range of converters are very good quality. They're an alternative to the 1.5x. I don't think you'll find they're any sharper than the 1.5x as it's pretty good itself but the glass/coatings are supposed to be superior. I think they do give a truer colour rendition but it's not by much. To my eye the little bit extra reach of the 1.5x is noticable plus I find the autofocus works slightly better with the 1.5x - though that may vary with camera model. Even the Canon 1.4x is sluggish compared to the Kenko 1.5x. Also with the Kenko 1.4x and Canon 1.4x in order to achieve any form of autofocus you need to tape off three of the electrical contacts in the converter to make it non-reporting.

Not sure about the photography classes. I don't mind helping out with tips or answering queries though.

In photography there's usually several ways to achieve the results you desire. I generally advise what I believe is the simplest way. I'm sure others use alternative approaches as I do myself on occasion.

Having had the same lens for a few months now and still getting used to it, I would endorse every word Ian says.  The only other thing I would add is that I find if you put the camera on auto-wind (or whatever the digital equivalent is) and fire off a few shots in succession,  it increases your chances of getting at least one sharp pic.

Hi Ian/Stew

Took this photo today at Saltholme using TV mode, the 550D and the 400mm 5.6 lens with a shutter speed of 1/800. As you can see, it's not pin sharp and I wondered if you've any idea why?

I've got the camera set to maximum quality.

Thanks, David

As Ian has already said, at 1/800, camera shake should not be a problem with the 400mm.  Possibilities are therefore (and it's hard to tell) bird movement, focus issues or possibly over enlargement.  Given the fact that nothing seems sharp, I would discount the first possibility. No idea how much enlargement you've done but middle option is certainly possible.  Try some experiments with static subjects to see what results you can get using different focus options.  Ian certainly knows a lot more about this than me and may advise other stuff.

Stew

Hard to say what the problem is with the Robin. Exposure is pretty good but focus is way out.

There's a few things it could be down to. It doesn't look like camera shake, more like the camera hasn't locked focus for whatever reason. You'd get similar results if the bird was 4m away and lens limiter switch was set to above 8m or if it was closer than 3.5m which is the minumum focus of the lens. Also if you take the photo before the camera confirms focus lock. Also if using manual focus through the viewfinder and it's dioptre adjustment isn't correct. Some cameras are known to either 'front focus' or 'rear focus' requiring adjustment by a repair centre but that's possibly one of the least likely explanations.

It's possible that the camera focus had trouble picking out the Robin against the bright background as well.

The branch bottom right behind the Robin is sharper focus as if the camera has picked up something behind rather than the bird itself. It's important make sure you half depress the shutter to activate the autofocus and then to wait a second or two until the camera has locked focus before fully depressing the shutter. When the camera locks focus you can usually opt for focus confirmation by either a beep or the illumination or the focus point in the viewfinder.

Also selecting just the single centre focus point in the viewfinder ensures the camera will focus on the bit you want, not what the camera decides. A friend had a similar problem with a 500D and that was down to using a zone focus setting rather than selecting just the single central focus point.

If in doubt about the camera autofocus it's worth checking it's working okay by simply putting the camera on a tripod and taking a few test photos using autofocus and then switching to manual focus. Make sure the subject has good lines and contrast. Something like a fence panel in the sunshine woks quite well. Also try the same using the live view function.

If you want to meet up sometime we can go over a few things. My time is pretty free though I'm not getting out much at present due to the snow.

Thanks for the help - I've set the centre autofocus point and it works much better. Still could do with more guidance so would be great if we could meet up.

I work apart from Fridays and I could meet up not this Friday but next (December 17) at 2.30. Would this be okay for you? How about at Saltholme?

Thanks, David

Quote from: DavieG on December 05, 2010, 09:33:09 PM
Thanks for the help - I've set the centre autofocus point and it works much better. Still could do with more guidance so would be great if we could meet up.

I work apart from Fridays and I could meet up not this Friday but next (December 17) at 2.30. Would this be okay for you? How about at Saltholme?

Thanks, David

Hi David,

Weather permitting I should be able to make it. All being well the light levels won't be too bad at 2.30 with the shorter days.

Thanks Ian. I'll post on here December 16 just to check everything is still okay. Thanks for the help - a drink is on me!